Use a curling iron to define waves, volumizers and hot rollers add height, but stay away from the little ones and these will leave curls too tight. Updos require bobby pins and statement making accessories.Master the pin curl! During the 40s, the pin curl set formed the foundation of most styles. Pin curls were used on all types, textures and lengths of hair but were especially popular for the shorter styles.
Pin curls have the advantage of being fairly easy to create after a little practice. They are also easier to sleep in compared to the brush or large Velcro style rollers. If you're a beginner with pin curls or want to mix up the style a bit, experiment with mixing up different sets.
Try and alternate between larger and smaller loops or working with different types of parts ranging from a center to a deep side part. Set rows of pin curls, alternating the direction of the curls, clockwise and counter-clockwise. Consider placing the curls so that they alternate between curling toward the front or towards the back of your face. By alternating the direction of the pin curls, your tresses will coil into beautiful deep waves when you remove the pins.
Another option is to only apply pin curls to isolated sections of the hair or to just the top or just the bottom. Keep in mind that you can easily dictate the size of the waves by adjusting the size of the curls.
Here are some tips from hairboutique.com
1. Start by using a comb with a rat tail or if you prefer, use a fine toothed comb. From personal experience I can tell you that creating pin curls can be difficult without the proper comb.
2. Using the tail of the comb create a clean, deep part in your hair.
3. Carefully section off a 1" inch section of hair for a medium sized curls. Section off a smaller section for tighter curls and larger sections for looser curls.
4. Comb the new section until it is completely smooth.
5. Spritz the section with a spray bottle filled with water or you can experiment with a hairspray or super volumizing tonic.
6. Hold the section of hair flatly against your scalp with one finger.
7. Take the end of the section and wind in a clockwise position around the opposite index finger forming a complete circle. Keep in mind that for the best style, form a round curl and not an oval one.
Note: Be sure not to twist the hair as you wind it. Make sure that the ends are tucked inside of the curl and curl is pinned right on top of it natural hair base. Do not pin the curl away from the base of the curl.
8. Holding the end of the curl with the thumb of the same hand, slip the curl off the index finger letting the end naturally fold inward.
9. Continuing to hold the curl between the thumb and forefinger, finish winding it. Place it flat against the scalp. Clip it with a hair clip or two through the middle of the curl.
Note: If you prefer, you can use more than one clip on each curl. When using more than one clip, crisscross the clips to form an X configuration.
10. Press against the curl to make sure that the ends don't escape.
Note: You may wish to work with end papers available from most large beauty supply stores.
11. Once the curl is formed according to your desire, use a single or double pronged clip and slide it carefully over the newly formed curl to hold it in place.
Note: Keep in mind that many people prefer the double prong clips for sleeping comfort. Under no circumstance should you use bobby pins which will form dents in the hair and may add to overall frizziness.
12. Make sure that the curl is anchored tightly by the clip, especially if you plan to sleep in the set overnight.
13. Divide and conquer. Work in a uniform pattern when creating the curls, working from side to side and from top to bottom of the head.
14. Spray well with hairspray or styling spray. Sit under a hood dryer to set the style or sleep on the style overnight.
15. When styling, unclip one curl at a time. Use fingers to arrange the curls in the desired style.
Additional tips:The more hair you use, the looser the curls. The less hair, the tighter.
The tighter the loop, the tighter the curl.
Hair needs to be damp, not wet to hold the set.
The longer the clips are in place, the stronger the set.
Sleep in the clips overnight or if that is not possible, sit under a hood dryer.
If you have a shaggy, chunky or other hair cut that renders the strands uneven, use end papers (available at a beauty supply store) or roll your hair in clean strips of unscented plain toilet paper. This keeps all the curls uniform, neat and prevents the dreaded hook ends that may occur.
Practice clipping from the top of the clip to guarantee a tight hold.
Use smooth clips, without ridges, if possible, to prevent creases.
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